Thursday, March 24, 2011

Les Falles


The girls and I went to visit Lucy in Valencia for an annual festival called Les Falles.  Beautiful large structures are designed, one for each neighborhood.  At the end of a week long celebration, the falles are burned in a spectacular fireworks show. 

We took the train into Valencia's city-centre on Thursday night. After dropping off our bags at Lucy's place, we set off for a pre-drink in a plaza and an outdoor disco. The first thing I notices was how relaxed all of the locals were. You have to understand that you cannot go more than five minutes without hearing someone setting off a firework.  To amplify the sound of the fireworks, kids will often put them in soda cans. In other words, these puppies are loud.  I found myself jumping at the sound, while everyone around me tranquilly sipped their cheap beers. 

The next day we set off early in the afternoon to see The Mascletà. Every day during the week of the festival, at 2pm, fireworks are put in the town square and basically blown up. I have never heard such a noise in my entire life. We were at least two blocks away, and I can't imagine being any closer. I'm assuming all Valencians have slight hearing loss. 

The Winner of this year's festival!
After the Mascletà, it was mini sandwiches and then an accidental viewing of a parade of local men and women. They were dressed in very beautiful traditional attire. The men and women are referred to as falleres(as).  Each woman carried a bouquet of flowers that was to be added to a large, two-story rendering of the Virgin Mary and Jesus (yes, made entirely of flowers).  It was absolutely marvelous.  The Virgin Mary is often portrayed in a very beautiful light, but this was just spectacular.  We basked in the sun and watched the parade as I sipped on my long awaited horchata (yummmm!).  The parade continued as we headed home. We later found out that the parade is a 2 day event! 

As we poked around Valencia, I was quite pleased at how much I remembered. I'm not exactly sure how I can remember parts of a city I have only visited 3 times, while Barcelona is still a mystery to me.  My only conclusion is that I lived there in a past life.

Friday night was "Nit del Foc", or The Night of the Fire. The four of us prepared a dinner at home before, touring the falles one last time.   They would be burned the following evening so we got all of our pictures in.  Mojitos and dancing followed and we sauntered in at around 4. Or was it 6?  All I know is that I am still recovering after nearly a week. 

Saturday started off with a bang (sorry, I had too).  A Mascletà took place right outside of Lucy's apartment! I was wrong before, this was the loudest sound I have ever heard.  The entire show lasted about 2 minutes with a grand finale that sent the man in charge running and all of us gasping in fear! Luckily he was okay, maybe it was part of the show. His friends did enthusiastically hug and congratulate him after the finale. Perhaps they were congratulating him on surviving yet another Mascletà.  Saturday was another day filled with tapas, long walks, and another parade. We made our last rounds of more falles and arrived just in time for the burning of one of the small falles.  I'll let the video speak for itself...

We completed the night with a bit of hookah and tea and a large falles. Our view wasn't as spectacular as the previous burning, but the crowd's energy made up for it. As mental as the Spanish are with their festivals, they never ever lack passion.  That was made evident by Valencians crying over the beauty of the falles, walking for 2 days in restraining traditional attire, and olé-ing over the falles' falling pieces.  Oh how I love Valencia!

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